2007 Seagull S6 Slim Dread [4.7 lbs] :: bad scarf joint repair and setup.

2007 Seagull S6 Slim Dread [4.7 lbs] :: lower saddle and cut string ramps in bridge.

The action was lowered by straightening the excessive relief in the neck via the truss rod and lowering the saddle.  With such low saddle exposure above the bridge, I had to cut string ramps to increase the downward pressure of the strings to prevent buzzes and help drive the top.

2007 Seagull S6 Slim Dread [4.7 lbs] :: bad scarf joint.

A portion of the headstock’s scarf joint is coming free so I worked some glue into it and clamped it.  The owner brought this in for a setup but I’m including this repair too.  Just can’t help myself.

1987 Carvin DC-150 :: strip and refinish.

Here I’m sanding off the clear poly finish to prep it for a transparent nitro sunburst.  At first I tried the heat gun / pallet knife trick but it was not going very well.  Like, at all.  Could be that the finish is fairly thin (for poly) and my knife had a thing for trying to gouge into the quilted maple.  No good.

Luckily this is a flat top and back, so sanding goes fairly quickly.  But my poor little compressor can’t feed the orbital sander for very long so I have to take frequent breaks to let it build up pressure again.  This places a larger compressor firmly on the shop wish-list.

I hope to get this into the booth this weekend.

1987 Carvin DC-150 :: stripping the cutaways.

Here I’m sanding off the poly finish in the cutaways by hand. I didn’t want to spread anymore of this poly dust around the shop than necessary, so I tied up this vacuum rig. Works pretty well!

1965 Epiphone Olympic :: head to heel, double neck break

Here by far is the nastiest neck break to come across my bench so far.  It is a 1965 Epiphone Olympic.  The neck is cleanly broken free of the body and then some.  This came into the shop in three pieces (body, neck, headstock) with a few loose / missing pieces to boot.  The back story is that this player was at a rehearsal where he backed up and tripped over some gear.  On the way down he caught his head on a counter top and was knocked out cold just before he and the guitar hit the ground.  Ouch!

Blog post over at : http://www.chubbuckguitars.com/blog/2014/8/18/1965-epiphone-olympic-head-to-heel-double-neck-break

"Fender" Strat [7.8 lbs] :: late-night quick setup.

A player stopped in last night as he recently noticed that his Strat was beginning to fret out with big bends on the upper frets.  I removed the neck, tightened the truss rod, and raised the saddles back up to the original action.  This helped clean up the sustain in his bends.

I love being able to support gigging players.

Note this is a Chandler Industries body and a Warmoth neck.  I didn’t have time to pull the pick guard and check the pickups.

1962 Guild M-20 [3.7 lbs] :: bridge re-glue & top touch up

The combination of the Fishman magnetic sound hole pickup and drop DGDGBD, this guitar sounds incredible.  This player needed the bridge re-glue turned around quickly as he will be playing at a friend’s wedding.

*Note the airplane in the photo.  My shop is south facing and right under Boston’s Logan Airport flight path.  Sometimes when the sun is in the right position planes will eclipse the sun and almost blackout the shop.

Coincidentally the owner is picking this up today after he drops his brother off at the airport.

2008 Epiphone Dot Studio WB :: head break cosmetics

The Dot head break is back together and blacked out. Here I am peeling back the logo before continuing with the clear coats.

View the original break here

1962 Guild M-20 [3.7 lbs] :: top touch up

The bridge has been re-glued and the entire top’s finish touched up with French polish (shellac).

1962 Guild M-20 :: my bad bridge re-glue

This is something you hate to see, but I had a bridge repair fail on me.  This guitar was in the shop March of 2013 for a bridge re-glue along with other structural repairs.  This bridge fit was a tough one with the top bulging behind the bridge and very concave (sunk) in the front.  Plus the guitar has been worked on by others in the past including another bridge re-glue that thinned the bridge significantly in the wings (0.040” thick at one point).  A large bridge plate must have been installed to attempt to combat the top’s belly.

I remembered that last year I clamped this bridge as my vacuum frame would not seal due to the dip in the top in front of the bridge.  I use both methods as they each have their own strengths and weaknesses.  I wanted to vacuum this bridge on as the bridge wings were very thin and flexible, and my previous attempt to clamp must have been flawed in getting perfect contact (I’m guessing my cauls were not up to the task).  So I first removed the bridge and cleaned/checked the fit.  Once I was happy with the fit, I installed a brace jack under the x-brace joint to push the top up just enough to get my vacuum to seal.  It did not take much and it did not change my original non-jacked fit of the bridge.  The cam clamps are holding a slat across the back to support the pressure of the brace jack on the back.

This re-glue was done at no charge as I own up to my mistakes.  If this happens to fail again, it will most likely need a new bridge as the bridge is a structural component of the top.  It can be thought of a brace that helps to distribute the localized force of the strings.  Since this bridge is so thin and flexible, it may not be strong enough.  Time will tell.  The guitar is a candidate for a neck reset since it has a shallow neck angle so if the player decides to do so, we can make a thicker new bridge at that time as well.

2000 Gibson Les Paul Standard :: TUSQ nut

I often feel like I dodged a bullet when a Gibson nut comes out cleanly requiring no touch up. New prefab TUSQ nut fit, installed and ready to go.

2000 Gibson Les Paul Standard :: replace nut

The things you have to go through to replace a Gibson nut.  Swapping out this worn out nut for a customer-requested TUSQ nut.